Tuesday, June 25, 2019


Stage 30 - Bayfield, WI - June 23, Sunday 

Our Bayfield accommodations are a nice change from the cabins two nights previous. 

The town of Bayfield is located on Lake Superior and is a cute delightful place. Many quaint homes. Several interesting places to shop. 

NO CYCLING BUT PLENTY TO DO ... 

The day starts grey and overcast with occasional rain or misting and stays that way throughout. 

We start the day with a cruise on Lake Superior to see the Apostle Islands. No one seems to know the origin of the name, much like the origin of Yellowstone’s name, so I stop asking. 

The cruise is fun. We arrive early to secure top level seats. After 30 minutes or so of cold and wind and misting, Judy heads downstairs. A few minutes later I join her. It’s good to be dry and warm. 

It’s interesting to hear the history of the islands and their unique characteristics. Some had fishing camps. Others housed lighthouses. One was home of a hermit, a life chosen after losing a six hour fist fight. Go figure. Another was the site of a quarry. Several were sanctuaries for wildlife. 

OUR ENVIRONMENT ... 

I feel sad reflecting on our nation’s natural wonders. The history of efforts to preserve earth’s resources within our borders has many heroes. We’ve read and heard of many examples during The Norseman’s Passage. Our Parks are majestic. Yet today too many care too little for protecting what Mother Nature created. 

We willingly despoil our only home. Humans’ eradication of other species is the sixth greatest extinction event in Earth’s millions of years of history. We value uncontrolled growth and consumption over all else. How ironic, I think. We know uncontrolled growth in the human body is a cancer that kills its host if not remedied. Yet uncontrolled growth across earth at the sake of our limited resources is viewed as holy grail. It’s preposterous yet it seems we humans are hell bent on destroying earth’s resources regardless of the long term consequences. 

KAYAKING ... 

The days agenda originally envisioned a sixty mile round trip ride before and after kayaking. We jettison the plan after taking account of the weather and other practicalities. 

We endeavor to complete laundry in between the cruise and kayaking. We calculate we can do a wash load but have to skip the dryer. Midway through the wash cycle, we spy the detergent pod wedged against the door, unopened. Our clothes are getting thoroughly wet but not clean. We can’t open the side door and start over so we watch helplessly as our clothes spin for no purpose. Oh well, maybe tomorrow. 

We hurry back to the hotel, wet clothes in bags, and rejoin everyone else. We make a quick transition into swim suits.  Judy elects to skip the lake activity - the weather is overcast and windy and wet - while the rest of us head out for kayaking.

The kayaking along the coast of Lake Superior is wonderful despite the weather. Api and I are in a two seater; David, Jonah and Morgan are in a three seater. We see an eagles nest and believe we hear the baby eaglets chirping. 

We continue to hug the coast heading for the sea caves that line upcoming cliff walls. The sound of water booming against the rocks animates the viewing experience. Just when we think the caves are mostly tiny affairs, we come upon a large entrance letting us travel 20-30 feet inside, the steep walls and narrow enclosure enhancing the experience. It’s enthralling. We spend the rest of the outbound trip paddling through various arches cut in the stone and contesting with different waves and currents. It is great fun and a fascinating experience. 

The return trip seems to last three times longer than its counterpart. As we finally near our home beach, we race our two kayaks. Winner gets the Betty’s Pie! While the larger kayak is first to beach, our kayak is first ashore. We’re all still eligible for pie. The race was spirited and fun. 

After returning to the store, we hunt for a lost pair of pants. They are nowhere to be found. As it turns out later, the pants never made it to kayaking, remaining safely at the hotel. It’s funny and understandable. After so many days on the road with so many planned and spontaneous adventures, with the days and locations running into themselves in our brains, occasional memory lapses or moments of confusion are no longer an infrequent companion. 

DAY’S END ... 

It’s late, cold and misty. We’re hungry searching for a place to eat. It’s Sunday evening and most places are closed. It’s fun walking around Bayfield together but we want to eat. We finally jump in the van and go to the local Casino and its open snack bar. 

Despite whatever allure these places hold for some, we remark they seem rather depressing places. People who can’t afford to lose their limited money too often squander it here where their chances of winning are distinctly unfavorable. 

Tomorrow starts early. We have a long day in the van. After finishing dinner, we return to our hotel and call it an evening. The day’s adventures have worn us out. 

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