Stage 17 - Coulter Bay to Roosevelt Lodge (YNP) - June 10, Monday

WILDERNESS & PEACEFULNESS …

It is the end of the day. I am sitting on the steps of my small but charming cabin. Each traveler has their own place. The setting is rustic and the lodging conforms. Single room. No bathroom. One double bed. A few outlets. Heat if you want it by wood stove. Cooling air by fan if so desired. A desk. A chair. Towels.

I showered in the communal bathroom a few minutes ago. Sitting on my stoop, I am cooling down from the hot water and the hotter, humid bath facility. A small but loud creek runs but twenty feet away from my resting place. The sound of water so close moving quickly but noisily is peaceful and relaxing. There are no outdoor lights nearby to disturb the tranquil setting.

Another great find by David.


Of course, there is no WiFi. Anywhere. For anyone. Again. The disparity in access between my Atlanta life and this journey is jarring. There is much good in being without. Not being able to call anyone is not good. So far the inability to communicate to each other during the day has not caused problems nor threatened anyone’s safety. Not being able to call home is inconvenient but hasn’t been problematic yet. Still I miss hearing from and sharing the day’s highlights with my family and friends.

PASSAGES …

The new era begins. Two gone; two new. The van signals the change visually: like the missing jet in a flyover formation, a bike is missing atop our vehicle. Inside, new seat arrangements are being made. Many routines need to be reset: packing the van, loading bikes, van availability for rider nutrition and hydration needs, and how riders and drivers stay connected are some. Nothing mysterious or difficult. But things on which we all need to be aligned.


TODAY’S WEATHER …

Brrr ... it is still cold. Temperatures are in the high 30s low 40s. It’s cloudy. It’s windy. The forecast calls for temps in the low 50s but cloudy skies all day. The sun will be missed. We will start out cold and hope for a better climate later. I am thankful I rode yesterday. I plan on wearing clothing sufficient to keep me warm.

THE RIDE …

We van back to Yellowstone. The day’s cycling begins at Old Faithful. We hope to get 70-90 miles in today. We are excited to be back on the road.

We see a different Yellowstone without the snowstorm. While the trees are mostly bare, a blanket of snow covers most of the ground this early. How lucky are we to see Yellowstone in such dramatically different ways. Old Faithful blew just before we arrived. We aren’t waiting. We are eager to get cycling.

I go all in on warm clothing: full shoe covers, thick socks, leg covers, a regular kit, an undershirt, a short sleeve summer jersey, arm covers, a long sleeve winter jersey, head cover, and winter gloves. I am determined not to be cold.

David and Jonah are dressed in one of their normal outfits. They have added warmer gloves and a down jacket. I expect they will overcome any clothing shortcomings with willpower and determination. The Bergman tenacity has been demonstrated time and again on our trip.




An hour or two into our ride, I am questioning my approach, or at least one decision I made. My upper body is alternately warm and chilled. Was the summer jersey a mistake? I debate the decision and how to adapt. Finally I take the plunge. Off goes my winter jersey. Off goes my summer jersey. Shit it’s cold outside! Back on goes the winter jersey. I roll up my summer jersey and stuff it in a back pocket, just in case I’m wrong about taking it off. We take off. Bozinga!!! I’m warmer. The chilling was caused by the summer jersey retaining sweat which then cooled. Happy feet! Imagine, getting warmer be wearing less.

The day’s ride is yo-yo’ing between first David ahead, then me, then we’re together. Jonah is doing great given his bike’s shortcomings, his shoulder, and the cold. After about 40 miles or so, David and Jonah ride together and I go solo. When the cycling is hard, a voice in my head says: “c’mon, you can do this”; “ride in my slipstream”. I push myself a little harder. 50 miles. The road steepens. I’m not the cyclist I was two weeks much less eight months ago. I am Breezer aka Hercules. I have the legs and the fitness to ride longer and higher.

I want to share how impressed I am with Jonah. The day is so damn cold. Yet he perseveres. Inside him is a stubbornness that won’t say ‘no’, that won’t quit. Jonah is determined to go on. The Bergman willpower and tenacity burns inside him, driving him. It is not easy. Only fellow cyclists know how hard and hurting cycling can be. Endurance cycling is not a sport for the fainthearted. To succeed at any level, you have to be able to endure and overcome pain. I’m still learning.

The riding ends around 2:30. We have to be at our end destination by 3:30 (actually 3:00 but we expect 3:30 will cut it).

HORSEBACK RIDING …

David has planned for two hours of horseback riding and a ‘stagecoach’ dinner, and 30 minutes more horseback time. After a day of cycling and two and a half hours on horseback, my groin/crotch/butt feels like it/they have been tortured. My knees haven’t touched since morning! Ok, I exaggerate. Still it’s an experience for sure. The evening is excellent. The horseback riding and outdoor dinner with the new Norseman gang is fun. We start bonding.


It’s the end of the day and I am bone tired. It’s ok. It’s good. Off to sleep. Another day awaits.

ODDS & ENDS …

I have my first body sore brought about by the constant chafing and dampness. Oh well, it was inevitable.

I have not been getting enough sleep most nights. We start our days early and often end very late in the evening. There is sSufficient light to ride as late as 9:00-9:30 and we take advantage of the extra hours to accomplish what we set out to do. I prefer to write and publish my blog before turning in. It’s a conundrum. I am accustomed to less sleep than most people but recovery from riding requires more. The last three nights have been good. I feel awake and rested today.

As has been true for days, we continue to see many solo unsupported cyclists. I have so much respect for these travelers on the road. Earlier adventurers rode horses traversing the land when our country was young. Are these cyclists today’s version of these explorers? I wonder.