Stage 15 - Yellowstone to Grand Teton NP - June 8, Saturday

IT SNOWED …

At 5:00 a.m., I am awakened by men yelling “maintenance” as they clear the snow off our TiPi’s canvas roof. Doubt erased: it snowed an inch to an inch and a half last night.

Inside our TiPi all is warm: Jonah made it his personal mission to keep our wood stove burning most of the night. His fight against the cold cost him some sleep but we can tell he’s proud of his fire building and fire maintaining success.






GODS OF RANDOM ADVENTURES …

It is 35 degrees. Sunny. Windy. A high of 43 is forecast. We debate riding or not. There is a cyclist saying: “there’s no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing”. The day starts calmly. We’ anticipate a late bicycling start.

Then comes a sleet storm. The sleet turns into snow. The snow keeps falling. We are amazed. “This is June; it isn’t supposed to be like this”, laughs David, representing our group’s astonishment. The snow falls all morning and most of the afternoon with little letup. Yellowstone transforms into a winter wonderland. It’s 28 degrees. We tour Yellowstone in our van.

Small geysers appear everywhere, more visible due to the cold and more easily seen from afar. It’s crazy to think of the powerful geological forces at work creating these plumes of gas, sulfur and water.

We stop at overlooks. We hike multiple trails, some long and winding; others short and steep. Peter rails against the cold. He’s not warm and he’s not pleased with Mother Nature. His expressions of annoyance amuse us.

We see several waterfalls including Yellowstone’s Lower Falls. It is majestic.

Wildlife appears randomly and frequently, taking their turn at amazing us. Elk individually and in small groups populate the landscape. Towards the end of our visit, we see Bison, first individually and then a group of 14 or so by the road. Vehicles stop. People get out with their children to snap photos. They seem oblivious of the potential danger. Peter’s commentary has us laughing.

Yellowstone is so big and presents us with so many different visages. Nothing is small. Yellowstone’s grandeur in all things - valleys, water, mountains, wildlife - is vast and breathtaking.

We leave Yellowstone skipping Old Faithful for a time heading south anticipating Judy and Sonya’s arrival early evening. Tomorrow Peter and Vik depart. Our small group is in transition. I’m curious how things will be different and sad to see two people leave whose company I enjoyed so much. Peter will return in several weeks. Vik must heed the call to return to work. Ahh, I am thankful again for the joy of retirement and the freedom to indulge in long vacations.

Plans for cycling fell away one small step at a time. To the casual observer, not riding might have been obvious. They don’t know cyclists. We see and pass multiple solo long distance cyclists. I know David would be out there at the smallest chance; his will is indomitable and impressive. I napped in the van as we drove south, content being warm and safe.

Peaking between the evergreens and then suddenly emerging, dominating the horizon, are the Grand Tetons. Magisterial. One amazing spectacular after another. Pictures of the Tetons will wait till tomorrow I decide, too lazy to take more photos and wanting only Yellowstone to dominate the day's impressions.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS ...

We are at Coulter Bay. WiFi sucks. No cell service. I want to talk with Terri. I walk from spot to spot, talk to one person after another, always the same: where can I find connectivity? Peter and I find a spot at the gas station a mile down the road. He waits in the van while I catch up with Terri. I appreciate the privacy. Terri and my conversation soothes my soul. I feel reconnected with the love of my life, my partner and best friend for so many years.

We will have been married 40 years this November. We joke when asked "how long": "25 good years, not bad for 40 years of marriage". Our humor bears honest message as well: marriages take work and it isn't always good times. We have persevered through the hard times, enjoy the good times, and are committed to each other. The ongoing work that benefits any good relationship is small price and willingly paid.

The universe of my life at times is surprisingly small: my wife, four daughters, their significant others, and my four grandchildren. Perhaps not as large as Yellowstone's caldera yet equally as strong, beautiful and rejuvenating.

ODDS & ENDS …

Yellowstone National Park was the USA’s first National Park. A fact I learned yesterday: the law making it so was signed by President U.S. Grant, one of my heroes. I love the connection.

Yellowstone is such a confounding place to me. Beautiful magnificent scenery and geological wonders and a place of great historic significance. A volcanic caldera whose ash will block most if not all sunlight from reaching earth when it again erupts, with dire consequences. We admire the beauty and push scarier thoughts aside.