Thursday, June 20, 2019

Stage 25 - Grand Forks, ND to Bemidji, MN - June 18, Tuesday

TUESDAY ...

Today is special for a new reason. I will meet Kari for dinner in Bemidji later today.  Kari is a fellow cross country cyclist who I met briefly outside East Glacier a week ago (or whenever). Kari and I have followed each other since on FB and via my blog and have enjoyed sharing stories and pictures.

Today is also special because we will leave North Dakota and enter Minnesota.  I am excited to see a new State.

THE WEATHER ...

The weather looks wonderful.  Sunny. Warm. At the last minute, I add an undershirt to my outfit but otherwise I am dressed for a nice day. Spoiler alert: the day's weather holds. It is nice all day. The wind is the only negative and we will battle cross winds and headwinds all day.

TODAY'S RIDE ...

David and Jonah decide to ride the day's full course, about 90 miles. Judy drops me off at a small town called Brooks, of which the only thing I see is the gas station / convenience store. My plan is to ride about 60 miles and get in late afternoon, early evening at the latest. I am looking forward to ending the cycling day before mid-evening. The longer days and early mornings wear more on me than the others, I think. It is not as easy to "burn the candle at both ends" as it used to be; I blame age.  I'm not complaining; it just is.

I don't like riding solo without the support van and its occasional visits. I start a Strava segment, send a link to Terri and Samantha who follow me when I ride at home, and call them letting them know they can follow along. I don't mention the support van is away and only say I am riding solo ahead of David and Jonah. Whenever I stop, I text Terri and Samantha and let them know what I am doing. My theory is they will raise an alert if they don't hear from me and I am not moving for a period of time. With backup plan in place, off I go.

The day is a joy from start to finish. I set an easy pace. I admire the scenery. Minnesota is beautiful. I love the rolling hills, the trees, the lakes and ponds, and especially the stands of aspen trees.

While Minnesota is renowned as the State of 10,000 Lakes, I love the aspen trees more. The wind stirs their tiny leaves which whisper hello, small little hands clapping as I cycle past. I remember them from my youth camping in the four corner states. The sound of their leaves mirrors the sound of water in a small creek gurgling along. I love it.

I stop at the Northern Bait and Convenience Store to get water and take a break. I love the store's motto: "Eat Here and Get Worms". Who can resist? Trudy the store keeper and I chat. She is enthralled by the idea of us cycling cross-country. She draws me a map with the best, most scenic route in her mind to get to Bemidji. I share with her our blog address.

Minnesota roads suck, or at least the ones we're riding. Bumps are everywhere. Seams every 20 feet or so are filled unevenly, causing more bumping. My ass is pissed off; there is little smooth riding and everything hurts. The route Trudy recommended is somewhat better. I decide to travel further south and take a road that I think will lead me to another route she recommended.

The ride is beautiful. The road smoother. I am having fun and my ass is happier. I stop at another convenience store to load up on, well I was going to say water but actually I'm getting chocolate milk. I get two bottles, one for each side pocket in my jersey. I continue to avoid putting anything heavy on my back in my center pocket. There is a sign for a raffle for Tyler; he hopes to get a kidney transplant and needs help with costs. The store keeper fills me in and I buy four tickets.

Somehow I miss a turn and end up on highway 2 which I was hoping to avoid. Oh well. I am close to my destination.

GODS OF RANDOM ADVENTURES ...

Google Maps decides to re-route me off of Highway 2 and onto a 'Rails to Trails' path. Sounds exciting. After being chased and escaping a dog, I turn right onto the path. Disaster! Whoever classified this route as 'bike ready' was incompetent. There is no way I can cycle on the soft dirt. I end up walking my bike about a mile or two. I am not happy but then I hear Terri's voice: "it's an adventure; enjoy what it offers". I calm down although I admit to still having the occasional temper outburst. Towards the end of my travail, I spy a pond nestled in its own scenic hideaway. I snap a shot thinking this is just deserts for the extra effort.

Of course, all Google Maps accomplished was to divert me off of Highway 2 which I then had to rejoin in order to finish my ride. I climb up the berm and start cycling on 2.  Finally, I arrive in Bemidji!

Since Judy traveled to Minneapolis-Saint Paul airport, so did my luggage in the van. I have no clothes other than what I am wearing. The folks at the hotel are very helpful and thankfully their gift shop has a t-shirt and sweat pants. I don't need the purchases but I do need the clothes. I am not having dinner in my stinky cycling gear. I make the purchases, clean up, and head over to see Kari.

CYCLING VILLAGE ...

When I told Terri what I was doing, she was excited for me. She said "I'm glad you are meeting fellow cyclists and building your cycling village".  I am lucky to have her support and encouragement.  I could not do what I am doing - I would not be on the Norseman’s Passage - without her backing.

Kari and I meet in the lobby where she is staying. I have my bike of course and am wearing my cycling shoes. Otherwise, thankfully, I am wearing regular clothes. I text Kari and tell her "I'm the guy in the lobby with the bicycle". She laughs when she joins me. We go next door to the hotel's eatery and enjoy a pleasant meal. We talk politics. We talk life stories. We talk cycling. Towards the end of our meal, we start excitedly sharing stories of our aches and pains. True to form, we share intimate details which would interest only a fellow cyclist. I laugh to myself enjoying the camaraderie.

When dinner is over and we are about to part ways, Kari asks a passersby to snap a picture. Later that evening Kari posts the picture on Facebook with the following comment: "I met Bruce as he chased me down out of Glacier. He heard about me from the kayak shop. He's doing his own ride across the country with friends, a different route, so we were able to cross paths again in Bemidji. Weird that this long distance cycling thing connects one to so many people in so little time. It's really why we do it. It's all about the experiences, not so much the bike."  I love Kari's comment and couldn't have said it better.

I head back to the hotel.

SURPRISE ...

David and Judy flew Jonah's long time girlfriend into town Tuesday, unbeknownst to Jonah. When I get back to the hotel, I hear all about the surprise.  Jonah is definitely excited. And I get to meet Morgan. She is every bit as charming and smart as advertised. Even better, in my own way of thinking, is the scar on her knee where she had surgery to repair a soccer injury. It fits the theme "Strong is the New Beautiful" for young ladies and women. I cherish any chink in the stupid gender defining role that limit what females can do. Being athletic and being strong in your own right is beautiful regardless of sex. Anyway, I digress. Jonah and Morgan go to the hot tub and enjoy catching up. I enjoy having the room to myself while I ready for bed.

Families can be wonderful things. I am lucky to be spending time with David, Judy and Jonah and feeling a small part of their extended family during this trip.

ODDs & ENDS ...

Time has blurred for me. I have become unhinged from the calendar as you know it. Days are now defined not by name but by weather and scenery. Hours are defined by amount of visibility. I am living more in the here and now than ever. In addition to the demands of the cross country journey, another factor is the lack of WiFi and other e-accessibility. It is easier to 'live in the moment' when so many other distractions are gone.

Twin beds!!! I have slept in more twin beds in the last weeks than in the last dozen plus years. Not a complaint; just an observation. The Norseman’s Passage delivers in many surprising and unexpected ways.

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