Stage 19 - Red Lodge to Jordan, MT - June 12, Wednesday

THE WEATHER …

It’s sunny and warm and getting hot. Yabba Dabba Doo!!! Break out the sunscreen. Put away the cold weather gear.

SLEEPING IN / BIKE SHOP …

We need to visit the LBS (Local Bike Shop for you non-cyclists) in the morning. They don’t open till 10:00. Oh thank you Gods of Rest! I sleep like a rock, down and out with only one potty break at 5:00. Glorious glorious sleep! I wake up refreshed.

We visit the Spoke Wrench in Red Lodge. Boss Andy and Ace mechanic Heidi work on all three bikes. Jonah’s gets the most work. We’re still trying to get his steed right and operating harmoniously with rider. I get a new chain. As Andy says: “I’m a masher”, meaning my riding style puts considerable pressure on my drive train/system. Notice I said “style” with no mention of “heft”; weight has nothing to do with it, right?! To provide some context, I started The Norsemen’s Passage 18 days and some 800 miles ago with a new chain. I know I could have gotten more mileage out of my now-former chain. I’m more interested in maximizing the life on my chain rings and derailleurs.

Support your local bike shop and not the big chain stores! Just saying…

TODAY’S RIDE …

We head towards the junction of 212E and 471W/N aka Joliet Road, some 30 miles away. We fly over the mostly -1% to -2% grades with a flat section here and there. David in the lead; me in 3rd spot. Who knew cycling could be so easy?! The big blue open sky is all around us.

We turn onto Joliet Road. David stops and we pause to gaze upon the distant Rocky Mountains still dominating the far western horizon. David advises “say goodbye to the Rockies; soon we’ll no longer see them boys. We’re headed to the great American Plains!” We silently reflect on our past weeks’ acquaintances remembering low and high points. I’m thankful to David for interludes like this. He’s excellent at pointing out transitions and significance I might otherwise overlook (see below ‘Personal Reflections’).


The road to Columbus MT is rolling, alternating 7% descents with small ascents or flat sections. I go full tuck, katy bar the door downhill, enjoying these short but fast sections. I power up the ascents, ignoring the agony I’m causing my legs. “No days off” I say to myself. The sun is bright. The temperature hot. The scenery is nice and the ride goes quickly. It’s pretty and interesting countryside. I’m in Columbus in no time, David and Jonah a few minutes later. I try and make sure they have plenty of Father-Son time. I know the joy that fills my heart when I’ve had similar time with one of my daughters.

Spirit Sherpa is not with me. He disdains the flat sections and dislikes the hot weather. Nope, today I suspect Spirit Sherpa is climbing with abandon in the Himalayas. I chuckle wondering who he’s bossing and/or encouraging. I hope he’s careful with his gestures.

After lunch, we van northward before renewing our trek east.

It is 6:40 p.m., time m to remount our bikes. The mosquitos are horrendous, swarming anything living. We move hastily. We hope to get in 30 miles or so. After riding together for a bit, David rides with Jonah. About two hours later, I call it a day (err, night). Judy and Sonya are waiting at a prearranged time. I totaled 75 miles for the day.

My evening ride has been memorable for its sameness. Perpetually straight roads. Unchanging rolling greenish hills (what do I know; I’m red-green colorblind). Clear blue sky with few clouds. Livestock scarce. My best company and main distraction proves to be my shadow, just ahead of me on the road. The head and shoulders unmoving. The legs pumping like a metronome. I imagine time trial specialist Tony Martin. We have absolutely nothing in common save a love of cycling. Yet his memory encourages me to maintain a steady cadence. I try and catch my shadow but it proves elusive; as the sun gets lower, my shadow stretches further ahead before finally escaping totally.

The best part of the evening ride is after it’s over. We pick up David and Jonah and are packing the car. The sun is setting, dipping below the horizon. Colors swirl across the sky. I wish I could name them or wax poetic of their beauty. I will let the picture (once I can load it, maybe tomorrow) convey the 1,000 words befitting the scene.

The van completes the final 70 miles of our day’s journey. David and Judy discuss tomorrow’s agenda. It is dark outside and quiet inside; we are deep in contemplation.

Well I thought my writing was over. Then “I’m A Believer” came on the radio after we arrive at Fellman’s Motel at 10:30 p.m. An impromptu dance party breaks out. Two ladies I won’t identify start dancing outside the car. It’s a great spontaneous moment putting a sweet capstone on a nice day. That never would have happened with Peter and Vik. Our new group is creating its own shared history.

ODDS & ENDS …

David said this morning he really regretted not riding yesterday’s descent after my summit. I get it. David loves the descents as much as I love the climbs.

In case you wondered what I think about when I’m cycling, here’s an example:

“Truckers are friendliest” is the conclusion in my informal survey to date. My opinion excludes fellow cyclists who almost always wave or say hello. Truckers of the 18 wheeler variety almost always wave back. Nice big wide open full handed hello’s. And not just a flip of the hand but the full handed wave held all the while we pass each other. Pickup truck and car drivers are entirely inconsistent. Some wave; most don’t. RV drivers fall in between but are far more prone to wave back. Another friendly group are folks driving work vehicles; they’re prone to waving back most times. The biggest disappointment are motorcyclists. Some acknowledge my wave as generously as truck drivers; others buzz by with nary a flinch in their wave-making muscles. Here we are - two-wheeled creatures alike - and they act as if I’m not even there. Who knows why. Whatever ... I enjoy the brief human connection whenever someone waves back generously.

We planned on eating at “The Big Fat Lunchbox” in Columbus MT. They were closed. They only serve breakfast. Huh, “lunch” is their name!!! Go figure! We eat Chinese. The food is great.

I'm enjoying blogging. I hope you're enjoying this as much.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS …

Those who know me best will understand. I often don’t know where I am - what State, what road, what I’m passing, or how I’m getting wherever it is we’re headed while cycling or traveling in the van. I apparently have no compunction embarking on a journey without knowing the fundamental basics of the trip. The funniest aspect of this trait is the surprise I have when things don’t go as planned (as if I knew the plan). Don’t ask me why; it’s a mystery to me. I’m making an effort this trip to behave contrary to my habits and know more about what I’m doing. As Terri would say: “Ya think?!” This woman who has lived with me for four decades laughs whenever I have such moments of self awareness, like duh, you just realized that. I enjoy laughing with her.