Stage 32 - Mackinaw Island to Onekama, MI - June 25, Tuesday

All worries about weather are cast aside upon awakening. The mid morning sunshine is bright at the edges of the window curtains. A peek outside confirms a glorious day is at hand. 

MACKINAW ISLAND ... 

We hurriedly pack and get breakfast just before the restaurant closes its buffet. I’m lagging behind the others and hurry across the street to join them renting bikes. We’re off to ride the Island’s 8.2 mile circuit. 

I am disappointed by the significant commercialization of the Island’s port and adjoining area. It’s a far cry from what I recall from our visit about three decades ago. While the development is understandable, I feel I am in a GAT Trap. GAT stands for ‘Great American Tourist’. The phrase is derisive and comes from my days camping the four corner States with The Cottonwood Gulch Foundation when I was 13 and 15. There are dozens of restaurants, bike rentals, gift shops, and other stores lining the main road. My feelings are definitely in the minority. Everyone else is very excited. 

The circuit ride is nice. The houses are beautiful. The lake is, well, ocean-size; its company as we bicycle along is very pleasing and relaxing. There are dozens of fellow visitors cycling the route as well. It’s almost un-American to be in the company of no cars and so many bicycles (written tongue-in-cheek). It’s a welcome break. Our group is separated through happenstance. I start chatting with a fellow from Jackson MI here with his wife celebrating their 44th wedding anniversary; they visit every year at this time. We talk the remainder of the circuit; it’s a pleasant moment. 

We regroup at the bike rental place and take the 1:00 ferry back to the mainland. I’m anxious to see The Slim Miss Piggy secure and well. A first glance reassures me; later I notice someone unstrapped the front and back tires. The straps were secure when we left the evening before. One of the holding clamps on my bike’s carrier was played with and is now loose. Apparently the lock on the arm securing The Slim Miss Piggy to the van prevented my bike from being stolen. A caveat: there were several items of value on my bike that were not taken. While I don’t think so, it is conceivable I’m imagining the foiled thievery. 

SLEEPING BEARS DUNE ... 

We van 135 miles south to Sleeping Bears Dunes. We stop at the Dunes Overlook. The National Park Gate person distinguishes himself by being curt and almost rude. Apparently asking why “no emergency services are available” as written on an entrance sign is a question too far. 

The Dunes Overlook is unimpressive. There are few and small glimpses of sand amongst the rolling grassy hills. It is approaching 6:00 pm as we head for our next stop, the Dune Climb. These dunes are what I remember from our family visit decades ago. The vast expanse of white sand towers above us and stretches afar in both directions. The group starts climbing. I head for a picnic table in the shade. I remember how difficult the climbing was before and decide to rest instead. 

TODAY’S RIDE ... 

As I enjoy the quiet and the shade, I contemplate the day’s remaining ride. To cycle or not, that is the question. Like most days, our remaining schedule has us getting to our accommodations late in the evening. While it is a quick van drive, the fifty miles will take three hours or more to bicycle. I decide I’m not riding as the clock passes 7:00 pm and I see the gang returning. I don’t want to bicycle until 11:00 pm or later. 

It is beautiful, sunny and warm. I haven’t cycled for two days. I want to be on my bicycle. My decision to not ride is based on a future 3.5 hours from now. The present conditions are too delightful and outweigh prospective worries. I decide I am cycling. I can stop later if I want. I hurriedly get ready and we’re off. 

The ride is a delight. The weather is nice. The wind mild. The terrain unchallenging. In fact, there are several mild descents that are fun easy interludes. 

David and I are having one of what I think of as our out-of-sync days. It seems we’re rarely riding the same pace. More often than not I’m in front and never sure how close or distant he is behind me. It confuses me since David is the stronger rider and I imagine he can ride in relation to me wherever he wants. Eventually I just ride my ride occasionally checking behind me to gauge his status. 

Midway to Onekama I stop at a convenience store to replenish my water. David rejoins me. It’s getting late. Judy calls to make sure I’m ok and see if I want to be picked up. I don’t. David and I start out for ‘home’. We ride together the remainder of our adventure. 

As it gets late, I give David one of my two front lights. Unfortunately, the provided relief dims an hour later when the light’s charge dies. 

It’s now completely dark outside. This is a new experience for me. I’m enjoying it although I prefer daylight. There aren’t too many cars and those that pass do so at a safe distance. Before we get to our lodging, we climb a series of three hills. They are each longer than short and steeper than gradual. They are nasty little buggers. David climbs them more easily than I - no dancing on my pedals for me tonight - and waits for me at the top. I appreciate the gesture each time. 

We see our van approaching when we’re a couple miles from finishing. Well, David does. My eyes aren’t as observant as they once were. More and more I find myself acting and talking like other people, that is, people that were the old people when I was young. My eyes, my ears, my body’s aches and pains ...they all resemble those of an older person. I comfort myself with the fact I’m cycling across America and keeping age in line as best I can. 

Judy asks if we want to van in. I reply no. We’re too close. I know Judy and Api think we’re nuts. I also know they didn’t expect a different answer. I sincerely thank them for checking on us and making sure we’re ok. 

We make quick work of the remaining distance to our rooms. It’s nearly 11:30 when we arrive. It was a good fun learning experience. 

ANTICIPATION ... 

Jonah’s and my lodging includes two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a kitchen/dining/living area. We also have a washer dryer unit. I can do laundry!!! It’s two days till I see Terri and I want the pick of clean clothes. Right now most everything is dirty. So in addition to eating dinner, showering, unpacking/packing, and readying for tomorrow, I do laundry. Mine and Jonah’s. I go to bed finally around 3:00. I’m happy cause I am that much closer and readier to see Terri. 

Stage 31 - Bayfield, WI to Mackinaw Is., MI - June 24, Monday 

A DAY IN THE VAN ...  

We have a long day ahead of us: a 300 mile van ride to Mackinaw Island. We start the day repacking so comfortable seating is available for all six of us. It’s a jigsaw puzzle but we do it. We have one stop before leaving the immediate area. 

One of the benefits of cycling cross country is the serendipitous opportunities to learn more about the people and businesses in America. We spend more time in places. We meet more people; folks are fascinated by what we’re doing and willingly open up and share their own stories and experiences. I surmise the very human and immediate presence of the cyclist is more inviting than the anonymous, faceless car passenger. 

TETZNER’S FARM ... 

One such experience is our visit to Tetzner Farms. Tetzner’s is home to a self service dairy store offering milk, cheese, and most importantly, ice cream. We learned about their store and ice cream separately, highlighting the power of high quality products and word of mouth referrals. Us kayakers learned from Mitchell, our guide. Judy learned from a store owner in Bayfield. Both gave glowing recommendations. 

The ice cream is as good as advertised. The best part of the visit though is the tour of the milking operation and their welding / fabrication shop. Matt, one of four owners (brother, uncle and grandad? are co-owners) offers to show us where and how the cows are milked. 

Everything is automated and it is absolutely fascinating. I’m enthralled with all the details and how it works. The milking is done by machine which knows the details pertaining to each cow identified by a tag on their neck: when last milked, amount produced, expected production, nutrition needs, location of teats. The machine cleans the cow’s udder and automatically places the suction devices. While the cow is being milked, the machine dispenses the correct amount and content of food to be eaten by the cow. After milking is complete, the machine cleans the suction devices. Each cow’s milk production is accounted for, recorded, and stored separately. 

What’s even more fascinating to me is that the cows voluntarily line up to be milked. They have an instinctive understanding of when they need to be milked and the milking is a positive experience for the cow. It’s a win-win for man and animal. 

The Tetzner Farm’s automated milking operation began in 2014; the technology has been in the market for ~20 years. Automation reduced human labor for Matt and his uncle from 13 hours per day to 3 hours. Matt used the extra time to develop his welding and fabrication business. He proudly shows us his shop and examples of his work. It’s amazing. Matt is very talented and his work is of the highest quality. 

What an amazing experience! 

A LONG DRIVE ... 

We depart Bayfield. As it turns out, the weather will suck on and off all day. What is bad looks worse when we consult the forecasts. Our current storm is followed by another. We won’t get any sustained good weather all day. At a certain point, David realizes cycling is out for the day. We tack another 90 miles of distance to our day’s drive.  

David plays a song from his phone on the radio. It’s called “Chocolate” by Hera from the album ‘Don’t Play This’. It’s cute. David plays the song in my honor in recognition of my love of chocolate. 

We pass through a town called “Bruce Crossing”. The only thing noteworthy about the town is the name. Blink and we’re through.  

We stop to get the van’s oil changed per the panel indicator. The technician says an oil change is unnecessary. There’s a casino nearby with a huge Santa Claus in front. I pose for a few pictures. 

DAY’S END ... 

We arrive at the Mackinaw Ferry and catch the 6:00 boat. We make overnight bags and leave the larger pieces of luggage. Due to the weather, we leave our bikes on top of the van. We can rent bikes to ride around the island tomorrow if conditions improve. 

Everyone is tired. There’s a palpable sense of frustration with the weather and our missed cycling opportunities. The ferry ride is enjoyable and short. After checking in, we find a restaurant and enjoy dinner. 

David and Judy retire to their room. Api, Jonah, Morgan and I go to our room. We end up chatting for a while sharing different stories of our lives. It is a nice finish to a long day. 

ODDS & ENDS ... 

My belly persists in maintaining its round shape. I know I have lost weight. I don’t know how much and haven’t tried to find out. Like miles ridden, it’s not an important metric. Despite the hours of cycling and effort involved, my shirt still rests comfortably on my belly emphasizing its roundness in any picture taken. I don’t know if it’s testament to lack of fitness or age but suspect it’s more the latter. 

David is having great fun with the disparity in how our Garmins are tracking calories consumed. We are similar in build and weight. I am a decade plus older. Riding the exact same route, David’s Garmin says he’s burned four times more calories. If I burned 2,000 calories, David burned 8,000. David has concluded (humorously I’m sure!) that I am not working hard enough and therefore should be eating less. He keeps threatening to put me on a diet and restrict my pie and ice cream consumption. The running gag has been source of a lot of fun the last week or so. We get our humor where we can. 

Stage 30 - Bayfield, WI - June 23, Sunday 

Our Bayfield accommodations are a nice change from the cabins two nights previous. 

The town of Bayfield is located on Lake Superior and is a cute delightful place. Many quaint homes. Several interesting places to shop. 

NO CYCLING BUT PLENTY TO DO ... 

The day starts grey and overcast with occasional rain or misting and stays that way throughout. 

We start the day with a cruise on Lake Superior to see the Apostle Islands. No one seems to know the origin of the name, much like the origin of Yellowstone’s name, so I stop asking. 

The cruise is fun. We arrive early to secure top level seats. After 30 minutes or so of cold and wind and misting, Judy heads downstairs. A few minutes later I join her. It’s good to be dry and warm. 

It’s interesting to hear the history of the islands and their unique characteristics. Some had fishing camps. Others housed lighthouses. One was home of a hermit, a life chosen after losing a six hour fist fight. Go figure. Another was the site of a quarry. Several were sanctuaries for wildlife. 

OUR ENVIRONMENT ... 

I feel sad reflecting on our nation’s natural wonders. The history of efforts to preserve earth’s resources within our borders has many heroes. We’ve read and heard of many examples during The Norseman’s Passage. Our Parks are majestic. Yet today too many care too little for protecting what Mother Nature created. 

We willingly despoil our only home. Humans’ eradication of other species is the sixth greatest extinction event in Earth’s millions of years of history. We value uncontrolled growth and consumption over all else. How ironic, I think. We know uncontrolled growth in the human body is a cancer that kills its host if not remedied. Yet uncontrolled growth across earth at the sake of our limited resources is viewed as holy grail. It’s preposterous yet it seems we humans are hell bent on destroying earth’s resources regardless of the long term consequences. 

KAYAKING ... 

The days agenda originally envisioned a sixty mile round trip ride before and after kayaking. We jettison the plan after taking account of the weather and other practicalities. 

We endeavor to complete laundry in between the cruise and kayaking. We calculate we can do a wash load but have to skip the dryer. Midway through the wash cycle, we spy the detergent pod wedged against the door, unopened. Our clothes are getting thoroughly wet but not clean. We can’t open the side door and start over so we watch helplessly as our clothes spin for no purpose. Oh well, maybe tomorrow. 

We hurry back to the hotel, wet clothes in bags, and rejoin everyone else. We make a quick transition into swim suits.  Judy elects to skip the lake activity - the weather is overcast and windy and wet - while the rest of us head out for kayaking.

The kayaking along the coast of Lake Superior is wonderful despite the weather. Api and I are in a two seater; David, Jonah and Morgan are in a three seater. We see an eagles nest and believe we hear the baby eaglets chirping. 

We continue to hug the coast heading for the sea caves that line upcoming cliff walls. The sound of water booming against the rocks animates the viewing experience. Just when we think the caves are mostly tiny affairs, we come upon a large entrance letting us travel 20-30 feet inside, the steep walls and narrow enclosure enhancing the experience. It’s enthralling. We spend the rest of the outbound trip paddling through various arches cut in the stone and contesting with different waves and currents. It is great fun and a fascinating experience. 

The return trip seems to last three times longer than its counterpart. As we finally near our home beach, we race our two kayaks. Winner gets the Betty’s Pie! While the larger kayak is first to beach, our kayak is first ashore. We’re all still eligible for pie. The race was spirited and fun. 

After returning to the store, we hunt for a lost pair of pants. They are nowhere to be found. As it turns out later, the pants never made it to kayaking, remaining safely at the hotel. It’s funny and understandable. After so many days on the road with so many planned and spontaneous adventures, with the days and locations running into themselves in our brains, occasional memory lapses or moments of confusion are no longer an infrequent companion. 

DAY’S END ... 

It’s late, cold and misty. We’re hungry searching for a place to eat. It’s Sunday evening and most places are closed. It’s fun walking around Bayfield together but we want to eat. We finally jump in the van and go to the local Casino and its open snack bar. 

Despite whatever allure these places hold for some, we remark they seem rather depressing places. People who can’t afford to lose their limited money too often squander it here where their chances of winning are distinctly unfavorable. 

Tomorrow starts early. We have a long day in the van. After finishing dinner, we return to our hotel and call it an evening. The day’s adventures have worn us out. 

Stage 29 - Ely, MN to Bayfield, WI - June 22, Saturday 

WOLVES ... 

David and the rest of the gang enjoy a 7:00 a.m. boat ride. I elect sleep instead. This proves to be an especially prophetic decision given last night’s spur of the moment writing. 

After breakfast, we bicycle to the International Wolf Center, a museum and active research facility. There are three wolves sleeping or moving around in an area that allows easy viewing. We join a small crowd watching, fascinated to be so close to these wild predators. (FYI: remote viewing is available at their website). 

FAMILY ... 

After awhile I leave the group and go outside to the van. The sun’s warmth feels good. I am lonely. I feel homesick and miss Terri. I wish I was home with her, sleeping in my own bed, being with my family, enjoying the normalness and familiarity of my life.  I do my stretches by the car, enjoying the quiet and sunshine. 

My feelings are no reflection on my traveling family, a phrase I choose purposefully. Everyone has been great and I love my time with each of them. David, Judy and Jonah. Peter and Vik. Sonya. Api and Morgan. Soon Peter again. Together we have created our own bonds and customs and unique roles. Laughter has been frequent. Talking easy. Problems few; and those that arise discussed and resolved amicably. I think we’ve done remarkably well given the intensity of our activities, the amount of time together, and our frequently close quarters. 

There have been some very heartfelt moments together that I failed to capture in my blogs. Nothing terribly special happened. Rather it was the camaraderie and feeling of being in harmony with each other that made the time stand out.

When David and I were cycling our 117 mile day, we stopped for sandwiches and a break by the road with Judy and Jonah. They were upfront in the van. I sprawled in the middle seat. David getting something out of the back. I would start a story; Judy and Jonah would stop listening. I’d tell the punchline; they’d be laughing at something else. I protested. They made fun of me. Jonah told me I only had 20 seconds to tell a story. We teased David. Joking about his need to ride 100 miles. Teasing him about some other triviality. It was wet outside, cold and windy; miserable. And in our little space, we were warm, laughing and happy, content in each other’s company. 

The story may not translate well but it was a spontaneous and nice moment. When I shared the specialness with Terri, she knew what I was talking about and understood Jonah and Judy’s actions. Kinda like: “I’ve been there Bruce”. I added: “I guess there are four other people (our daughters) that would understand too”. To which Terri said yes of course. Maybe it’s just the feeling of acceptance that comes when people like your good attributes and overlook or embrace with humor your other behaviors. 

TODAY’S RIDE (PART ONE) ... 

We leave the Wolf Center on our bicycles. I call Terri and share I miss her and wish I were home. I tell her I will be fine in ten minutes and that everything is ok. We miss each other. I can’t remember a time we have been apart for so long. The time away has its benefits. The Norseman’s Passage is worth it. We will be together soon. 

I love cycling for many reasons. It’s easy at one level - you get on the bike, spin two pedals and away you go - and complicated if you want to master any aspect of the sport. 

While the act of cycling is an individual exercise, the practice of cycling involves understanding group dynamics. Admittedly, I am not well versed in the dynamics of group riding since 90+% of my cycling is solo, riding alone. The Norseman’s Passage has given me plenty of opportunity to learn about, practice and think about how individuals work together. 

Some days don’t belong to you when you’re cycling. They belong to someone else with whom you ride in support. 

Today I ride 2nd and/or 3rd  alternating with Jonah. It’s a beautiful day. The sun is shining brightly. No clouds interfere with its warmth inducing rays. It feels good to ride in the heat and sweat, although not too profusely. The winds are in our face or blowing across us, no break there, but they are nowhere near as fierce or unrelenting as yesterday or the past few days. 

When I am in front of Jonah, I pace myself so I keep him in my ‘line of sight’. If something happens to him, his failure to appear when I crest an upcoming hill will alert me to slow and wait, making sure all is well. Eventually it makes sense that we ride together thus rendering ‘line of sight’ unnecessary. Nevertheless I want to know my fellow cyclists are providing me the same protection when I’m riding third, just as David has done in previous rides. 

INTERLUDE ... 

We meet Judy, Api and Morgan at a prearranged point 35 miles into our ride. David is well ahead of us. We decide to ‘leapfrog’ him; we load our bikes atop the van and head for a spot in front of where he is riding. It takes awhile. David has been making good time. 

We pass David and stop at a park. Judy, Api, Morgan and Jonah are having lunch. I’m not. I want to cycle more and not wait to restart. 

David arrives as I am getting ready. His timing couldn’t be better. He doesn’t want to stop either. After a short break, we depart. There’s another 35 miles or so to our destination: Betty’s Pies. 

TODAY’S RIDE ( PART TWO) ... 

On my bicycle I immediately notice the absence of head or cross winds. Eureka!!! We have a tailwind!!! Oh joy! 

David and I ride together, enjoying each other’s company. The camaraderie is natural after the many miles and hours together. We have similar personalities in ways. That has its good and not so good points. Yet we relax when we’re together and have a good time talking or being quiet. 

Seven months ago when I first started cycling with David or Vik, I couldn’t keep up with either one. Today we ride side by side easily. I no longer feel intimidated riding with David as I once did. It was never anything David or Vik did; it was my own way of looking at our cycling relationship. They were far superior cyclists and I knew and felt it. I am happy as a cyclist to have come as far as I have these past months, weeks. I am still not in their league as a cyclist but I am close enough that the differences don’t interfere with our riding together in sync. 

Lake Superior is incredible. There are many amazing views. We cycle on a bike path. It is good to be off the main roads. 

We are almost at Betty’s Pies. With two miles to go, I bonk, meaning I have depleted my energy and have trouble putting effort into my cycling. I consume two Kind bars. It’s enough. Soon we are at Betty’s waiting on the van and the rest of the gang. While waiting, the looks us two men in Lycra get from the other patrons amuse me. 

The ladies and Jonah finally arrive. 

DINNER & DESERT EXTRODINARE  ... 

Betty’s Pies is amazing. It is everything you would want from a restaurant specializing in homemade pies. We each have a sumptuous dinner. We order a pie to go. For desert, David, Judy, Jonah and Morgan share the Pigs Trough, a combination of three pie slices, four scoops of ice cream, a whole banana, and all the toppings. If finished by one person under 15 minutes, you get a free T-shirt. I enjoy a slice of blueberry pie ala mode. I give it the highest compliment: it’s as good as Nunan’s! 

Betty’s Pies accepts online orders.  While the cost is high because the pies are cooked fresh, frozen, and sipped overnight delivery. The taste is divine so what price pleasure...  

IT’S A SMALL WORLD ... 

I discover via Facebook that friend Harvey Goldberg did a special on Betty’s Pies some years ago. I mention this to Carl, the store’s manager who, shock of shocks, was here the day Harvey produced the special. Carl remembers Harvey fondly and said to say hello. 

EVENING’S END ... 

We have a two hour drive after dinner to get to Bayfield WI. We fit six in five seats a bit uncomfortably but doable. The evening is pleasant and the drive passes quickly. 

Stage 28 - Kabetogama to Ely, MN - June 21, Friday 

David is anxious to get started cycling. He wants to begin one day on-time, something we have failed to do with clock-like accuracy. 

MORNING RITUAL ... 

Things look good. All suitcases are packed and ready for Api, Judy, and Morgan to load. They will leave after us, traveling faster in the van and meeting us at a prearranged time / place later that morning. 

Our morning bike preparation ritual nears an end. We clean the rear cassette, rear derailleurs, and front chainrings of our own bike with tidy wipes. We clean our chain and relube it. We reinflate the front and rear tires. 

Water bottles are filled. Food and gels packed. Sunscreen applied. Sun protectors for arms on. Neck wraps providing additional protection against sun pulled over head. Roll-on pain relieving liquid for my knees put in a back pocket (it helps manage my knee discomfort during the day). Sneakers off and cycling shoes on. Last but not least, Garmin computers turned on and the day’s course selected. 

We are ready to go! A timely departure at hand. 

PFFFTTT ... 

What caused that distinctive sound?!?!  David and I react instantly with the same “Oh Shit No” expression on our faces. I walk over to his bike. Rear tire flat. Again. Damn it. Again. For the umpteenth time. David has not gone more than a day without a flat. And this time, the tire flatted just leaning against the house. He’s cursed! 

The flat is so sublimely ridiculous and the problem so frequent that we laugh. Anger won’t help. The sound and our immediate and similar reactions and facial expressions has us shaking our heads. 

We immediately go about addressing the problem. David has new tire rim tape. We’ll fix that first in hopes of effecting a riot cause solution. David completes that task smoothly. 

Replacing the tube takes a little longer. Sporting cuts to four of my knuckles from hitting the spokes of his bike’s wheel, I’m eager for David to make the repair on his own. David wears medical gloves on both hands for cleanliness. He wears a black pleather glove on his right hand to protect against cuts. It’s an amusing sight. 

Long story short, David does most of the fix himself. Judy googles tire fixing and contributes timely and helpful suggestions. I pitch in finishing installation of the tire. Of course I cut another knuckle. David’s bike hates me.

Off we go 90 minutes late. 

TODAY’S RIDE ... 

The weather is beautiful.

The scenery is gorgeous. Wild flowers fit the landscape , at times appearing like a carpet over fields near and far. Flowers are a constant companion on the roadside. I love the daisies and yellow ‘butter cup’ flowers.  

Everywhere are birch trees (I called them aspen in earlier blogs). As previously reported, they are one of my favorite trees. I love how they look, their tiny leaves and the sounds they make. Stands of birch trees are so numerous I wonder why they don’t share equal billing with Minnesota’s 10,000+ lakes. 

As we ride, I am impressed with the number of trucks hauling boats. It’s almost humorous. In fact, it seems trucks without boats are in the distinct minority. All Minnesotans who can drive must fish or at least own a boat of some kind. 

Speaking of driving ... Minnesota: fix your roads! The vast majority we have ridden are in bad shape. Butt busting seams are every 20 feet. The sides of roads are either nonexistent or in decrepit shape. 

I am riding with Jonah at his pace. Suddenly, when we’re within 8 miles of the restaurant where we’ll have lunch, swoosh, Jonah is gone. I crest the top of a hill thinking I’m just behind him. But he’s gone. Did somebody say “Cheeseburger”? He’s rocketed ahead of me. I bust a gut trying to catch him. I arrive just behind him. 

THE LUYCK BUYCK CAFE ... 

We eat at a roadside cafe called The Luyck Buyck seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Across the street oddly enough is a golf course. 

There are a couple customers inside. The place is unpretentious with an interesting mish-mash decor. The food service is pizza and nothing else. We’re hungry and order two. The waitress seems standoffish and the place unfriendly. While we’re eating, a fella walks in, spies us, and asks in a loud voice: “Are you the crazy folks with the bicycles?” His tone is friendly and we banter back and forth. Whatever ice was in the atmosphere melts. Other customers enter. More back and forth. The waitress relaxes, whatever reserve gone. We’ve become regular customers and she’s become friendly and helpful. 

As we leave, a row of customers at the outside bar discuss our biking trip with us. The men are especially interested in the placement and protection of the family jewels. It’s an atypical and interesting back and forth. As we leave, they wish us well and safe journey. 

The visit and area reminds me of Bryan, a tiny town in NW Ohio where Terri and I lived for five or six years and had our first three daughters. 

AN EARLY END (OH HALLELUJAH) ... 

David researches the remainder of the day’s cycling route during lunch. Discussion with the waitress confirms that all roads to our final destination are gravel. Eureka!!! Gravel is our Superman’s kryptonite; we cycle on paved roads only. This marks the first time David’s cycling is stopped before journey’s end. We ride another 12 miles to pavement’s end, load bikes in van, and start driving. 

The Minnesota scenery continues to impress. It is a beautiful drive.

RIDE REDUX ... 

With about fifteen miles to our cabins, the gravel ends and pavement begins. An opportunity for more cycling!!! David and I remount our steeds excited to pedal another 45 minutes or so on a beautiful day. 

We arrive at our accommodations. Hmmm, interesting. The owner forgot he had three rentals so we wait while the cabins are cleaned. They are appointed early Americana (e.g. old and outdated). The bathroom plumbing arrangements are inventive. The electrical (e.g. extension cord) configuration in the main room is interesting. Well, here we are staying for better or worse. 

SLEEP INTERRUPTED ... 

I wake around 1:30 and struggle to fall back asleep. I think about the day’s ride and the fun I had climbing Minnesota’s hills. Words form sentences in my head, a poetic description of what I felt. I realize I will lose them unless I write them down now. So I do... 

MY HEART SOARS ... 

There is an unbridled joy that comes from being strong on your bicycle climbing up a hill. You stand on your pedals and spin your wheels and begin your ascent. You’re halfway up and you think it’s time to sit and mash the rest of the way to the top. And instead, you think to yourself, no. No. You reach a little deeper inside and find your legs responding. The Slim Miss Piggy dances beneath your feet. And you dancing on her pedals. Climbing higher and higher, your bike swinging side to side under your command, moving up and upward. It’s fun, this flying. Then you are at the top of the hill. Triumphant. Your legs. Your body. The Slim Miss Piggy. On top of the hill feeling strong, a strength you didn’t know you had. It was a short climb. But it was joyful. And you sit down on your seat. Pedaling. The breaths now coming harder as your body demands oxygen. More oxygen. Happy. Thinking everything was worth it. For the joy of flight up a hill. Doing something you love. And doing it better than you ever thought possible. It’s a small moment in a much larger day. Yet it encapsulates every reason you had for doing this adventure. To be free on your bicycle for hours, days, weeks at a time. Riding and having fun. 

Stage 27 - Kabetogama, MN Rest Day - June 20, Thursday 

I suppose one can screw up a rest day; however, I am determined to maximize the benefits from mine. The best part of the day, no offense intended, is taking charge of what I do. As I view it, I get to determine what I do as long as my plans don’t mess up anyone else’s arrangements. 

REST & RECOVERY ... 

Last night we enjoyed sitting around the outdoor fire pit. Telling stories. Jokes. Laughing. Watching the sunset in wonderment. As we retired for the evening, I told everyone: “don’t wake me up if I’m sleeping tomorrow “. 

I have a wonderful sleep. I wake up at 6:00 a.m. and wander around outside. Visit the dock. Talk to folks heading out to fish. Sit in the early morning sun going through my photos deciding what to keep. At 8:00, I return to the cabin, crawl back into bed, and immediately fall back asleep, out like a rock. I sleep till 10:30 and boy, I need it. 

THE WISDOM OF NO ... 

Sleeping so deeply and for so long confirms yesterday’s decision not to ride any more than I did. My body was exhausted; my energy banks depleted. The extended sleep does me good! 

David had proactively rented a pontoon boat for the day and everyone is looking forward to a day on the water. 

My second ‘wise no’ is forgoing the boat trip and staying at the cabin. I need a ‘me’ day.  I watch the group depart on the boat happy for them and happy for me. They wave goodbye and shout advice on what I do or don’t do. I take photos of their glad tidings. A feeling of mutual goodwill prevails. 

RELAXING ... 

“No cycling” is on my day’s agenda much to the pleasure of my butt and my hands especially. Both have been feeling the detrimental effects of daily repetitive long distance cycling. A break is just what the doctor ordered (hahaha ...pun intended!). 

I enjoy a long hot cleansing shower. Wearing clean non-cycling clothes is a pleasure. 

I do two loads of laundry. I think of Terri and chuckle at the realization cleaning and folding my clothes is relaxing and therapeutic. 

I write three day’s worth of blogs. I’m thankful that internet connectivity enables me to post text updates. I’m annoyed to no end that insufficient band width prevents posting pictures. 

The day is sunny, warm and peaceful. 

REUNITED ... 

Judy said they would be gone long enough for me to miss them. She is right. About six o’clock I start watching the lake looking for the returning pontoon boat. I began getting a little anxious and then nearing 7:00 p.m., the returning party is spied approaching home. I hasten to the dock to greet them. 

By all reports they had a wonderful time. 

We end the evening like we did last night: gathered at the fire pit, chatting and laughing, ooing and ahhing at another incredible sunset. Our fun is enhanced with the making of S’mores. Jonah wins the Golden Marshmallow contest when he magically creates what can only be accurately described as a blueberry cupcake. A feat never to be repeated. 

We retire for the evening, another amazing day behind us. 

Stage 26 - Bemidji MN to Kabetogama, MN - June 19, Wednesday

WEDNESDAY ...

Catching up ...

TODAY'S RIDE ...

The start to our day is slow. We gather for breakfast and enjoy the morning. The weather is gorgeous. It is a good day to cycle but no one is in a hurry.

David, Jonah and I start together and will remain that way until the last bit of the ride. We start on the Paul Bunyan Trail heading north. After a short seven miles, the trail turns into a grass path. Our route goes in another direction. I'm OK with the change. The Paul Bunyan path reminds me of the Silver Comet Trail: straight and kinda boring in its sameness.

Suddenly we are faced with four miles on a hard dirt road and loose gravel. The Slim Miss Piggy is in her element (yes, that is my bike's nickname - Peter complained about her weight when loading her on the van. The more I thought about it, the more I settled on just that nickname. And I love it!). I am not worried about the gravel; The Slim Miss Piggy's 'Armadillo tires' are tough and sturdy. I do not expect any problems. David is understandably anxious about flats and does not like gravel.

Jonah aka the Gravel Monster sprints ahead of us.  Suddenly, off in the distance, Jonah disappears over the horizon. Later he will claim he was escaping swarms of bugs but I am not buying it. We rode the same dirt road and were unbothered. I think Jonah is simply a Gravel Monster enjoying the rough and tumble surface. I remark to David that it is nice to see Jonah flying ahead of us. Everyone deserves to be the fastest on occasion.

Finally we reach paved roads. Like too many Minnesota roads, these are bumpy and provide no relief to our sore seats. We moan and groan and complain.

After 50 miles, we divert to Northome, MN for lunch at The Shining Light Cafe.  It is another of David's delightful finds.  The food is outstanding. The setting old Americana. The people friendly. There is a two year old named Ida who is cute as a button. Of course I talk with her.  She keeps saying "Daddy is gone"; finally Teena, her grandma who owns and runs the Cafe, explains her parents are in Jamaica on their honeymoon. Sweet. We agree how wonderful it is to be grandparents.

When we walked in, we noticed the sign for homemade pies and inquired about variety and availability. We were told 'none' which we discovered meant 'still in the oven' and not due out for 45-50 minutes. We told our waitress to reserve both pies; we wanted some of each! Ala mode of course!

A RESTFUL END ...

During and after lunch we discuss the remainder of the day's plans. I suggest we begin our day off that afternoon. David calculates and recalculates different endings. Finally we load our bikes and pile into the van - six of us sharing five seats. It's comfy. We drive an hour or so I am told; I nap the entire trip. I am exhausted from too much excitement and not enough rest: I have averaged only four hours sleep the last five days.

About 27 miles from our cabin, we pull over to begin the rest of our bike ride. I beg off as does Jonah. David is a warrior with boundless energy. Off he goes. I can honestly say for the first time since I have ridden in a van while others bike that I am thrilled to be in the van. I miss the immersive experience of cycling in beautiful scenery but I cannot endure another two hours on the bike.

Our cabin at the The Pines of Kabetogama Resort is wonderful. Clean. New. Spacious. Nicely appointed. Great view of the lake. We unpack and ready for two days in one location. It feels like we're stealing away.

We have our first homemade dinner since the beginning of The Norseman’s Passage.  Special thanks to Judy. The meal was wonderful.

After dinner, we gather round a nearby campfire. The fire is nice. We enjoy each other's company and random conversation. We watch the sunset and wonder at its splendor. Shortly after, we retire for the evening. It has been another great day.

ODDS & ENDS ...

I tell everyone not to wake me if I am asleep tomorrow morning. While everyone is excited for a day on the lake on a pontoon boat, I am looking forward to a day of rest and catching up. I need solitary time and I need rest to recover.

It is common as we ride to see the American flag flying at people's residences.  Occasionally we will see the flag flying over an abandoned tractor or some other structure. I don't know if it means anything; I have nothing to compare with. I know it is nice to see.

Stage 25 - Grand Forks, ND to Bemidji, MN - June 18, Tuesday

TUESDAY ...

Today is special for a new reason. I will meet Kari for dinner in Bemidji later today.  Kari is a fellow cross country cyclist who I met briefly outside East Glacier a week ago (or whenever). Kari and I have followed each other since on FB and via my blog and have enjoyed sharing stories and pictures.

Today is also special because we will leave North Dakota and enter Minnesota.  I am excited to see a new State.

THE WEATHER ...

The weather looks wonderful.  Sunny. Warm. At the last minute, I add an undershirt to my outfit but otherwise I am dressed for a nice day. Spoiler alert: the day's weather holds. It is nice all day. The wind is the only negative and we will battle cross winds and headwinds all day.

TODAY'S RIDE ...

David and Jonah decide to ride the day's full course, about 90 miles. Judy drops me off at a small town called Brooks, of which the only thing I see is the gas station / convenience store. My plan is to ride about 60 miles and get in late afternoon, early evening at the latest. I am looking forward to ending the cycling day before mid-evening. The longer days and early mornings wear more on me than the others, I think. It is not as easy to "burn the candle at both ends" as it used to be; I blame age.  I'm not complaining; it just is.

I don't like riding solo without the support van and its occasional visits. I start a Strava segment, send a link to Terri and Samantha who follow me when I ride at home, and call them letting them know they can follow along. I don't mention the support van is away and only say I am riding solo ahead of David and Jonah. Whenever I stop, I text Terri and Samantha and let them know what I am doing. My theory is they will raise an alert if they don't hear from me and I am not moving for a period of time. With backup plan in place, off I go.

The day is a joy from start to finish. I set an easy pace. I admire the scenery. Minnesota is beautiful. I love the rolling hills, the trees, the lakes and ponds, and especially the stands of aspen trees.

While Minnesota is renowned as the State of 10,000 Lakes, I love the aspen trees more. The wind stirs their tiny leaves which whisper hello, small little hands clapping as I cycle past. I remember them from my youth camping in the four corner states. The sound of their leaves mirrors the sound of water in a small creek gurgling along. I love it.

I stop at the Northern Bait and Convenience Store to get water and take a break. I love the store's motto: "Eat Here and Get Worms". Who can resist? Trudy the store keeper and I chat. She is enthralled by the idea of us cycling cross-country. She draws me a map with the best, most scenic route in her mind to get to Bemidji. I share with her our blog address.

Minnesota roads suck, or at least the ones we're riding. Bumps are everywhere. Seams every 20 feet or so are filled unevenly, causing more bumping. My ass is pissed off; there is little smooth riding and everything hurts. The route Trudy recommended is somewhat better. I decide to travel further south and take a road that I think will lead me to another route she recommended.

The ride is beautiful. The road smoother. I am having fun and my ass is happier. I stop at another convenience store to load up on, well I was going to say water but actually I'm getting chocolate milk. I get two bottles, one for each side pocket in my jersey. I continue to avoid putting anything heavy on my back in my center pocket. There is a sign for a raffle for Tyler; he hopes to get a kidney transplant and needs help with costs. The store keeper fills me in and I buy four tickets.

Somehow I miss a turn and end up on highway 2 which I was hoping to avoid. Oh well. I am close to my destination.

GODS OF RANDOM ADVENTURES ...

Google Maps decides to re-route me off of Highway 2 and onto a 'Rails to Trails' path. Sounds exciting. After being chased and escaping a dog, I turn right onto the path. Disaster! Whoever classified this route as 'bike ready' was incompetent. There is no way I can cycle on the soft dirt. I end up walking my bike about a mile or two. I am not happy but then I hear Terri's voice: "it's an adventure; enjoy what it offers". I calm down although I admit to still having the occasional temper outburst. Towards the end of my travail, I spy a pond nestled in its own scenic hideaway. I snap a shot thinking this is just deserts for the extra effort.

Of course, all Google Maps accomplished was to divert me off of Highway 2 which I then had to rejoin in order to finish my ride. I climb up the berm and start cycling on 2.  Finally, I arrive in Bemidji!

Since Judy traveled to Minneapolis-Saint Paul airport, so did my luggage in the van. I have no clothes other than what I am wearing. The folks at the hotel are very helpful and thankfully their gift shop has a t-shirt and sweat pants. I don't need the purchases but I do need the clothes. I am not having dinner in my stinky cycling gear. I make the purchases, clean up, and head over to see Kari.

CYCLING VILLAGE ...

When I told Terri what I was doing, she was excited for me. She said "I'm glad you are meeting fellow cyclists and building your cycling village".  I am lucky to have her support and encouragement.  I could not do what I am doing - I would not be on the Norseman’s Passage - without her backing.

Kari and I meet in the lobby where she is staying. I have my bike of course and am wearing my cycling shoes. Otherwise, thankfully, I am wearing regular clothes. I text Kari and tell her "I'm the guy in the lobby with the bicycle". She laughs when she joins me. We go next door to the hotel's eatery and enjoy a pleasant meal. We talk politics. We talk life stories. We talk cycling. Towards the end of our meal, we start excitedly sharing stories of our aches and pains. True to form, we share intimate details which would interest only a fellow cyclist. I laugh to myself enjoying the camaraderie.

When dinner is over and we are about to part ways, Kari asks a passersby to snap a picture. Later that evening Kari posts the picture on Facebook with the following comment: "I met Bruce as he chased me down out of Glacier. He heard about me from the kayak shop. He's doing his own ride across the country with friends, a different route, so we were able to cross paths again in Bemidji. Weird that this long distance cycling thing connects one to so many people in so little time. It's really why we do it. It's all about the experiences, not so much the bike."  I love Kari's comment and couldn't have said it better.

I head back to the hotel.

SURPRISE ...

David and Judy flew Jonah's long time girlfriend into town Tuesday, unbeknownst to Jonah. When I get back to the hotel, I hear all about the surprise.  Jonah is definitely excited. And I get to meet Morgan. She is every bit as charming and smart as advertised. Even better, in my own way of thinking, is the scar on her knee where she had surgery to repair a soccer injury. It fits the theme "Strong is the New Beautiful" for young ladies and women. I cherish any chink in the stupid gender defining role that limit what females can do. Being athletic and being strong in your own right is beautiful regardless of sex. Anyway, I digress. Jonah and Morgan go to the hot tub and enjoy catching up. I enjoy having the room to myself while I ready for bed.

Families can be wonderful things. I am lucky to be spending time with David, Judy and Jonah and feeling a small part of their extended family during this trip.

ODDs & ENDS ...

Time has blurred for me. I have become unhinged from the calendar as you know it. Days are now defined not by name but by weather and scenery. Hours are defined by amount of visibility. I am living more in the here and now than ever. In addition to the demands of the cross country journey, another factor is the lack of WiFi and other e-accessibility. It is easier to 'live in the moment' when so many other distractions are gone.

Twin beds!!! I have slept in more twin beds in the last weeks than in the last dozen plus years. Not a complaint; just an observation. The Norseman’s Passage delivers in many surprising and unexpected ways.

Stage 24 - Minnewaukan to Grand Forks, ND - June 17, Monday

BLOGGING UPDATE …

I am terribly behind on blogging for no reason other than lack of time or, said another way, more time spent on my bike cycling and less time off it composing. I am enjoying blogging immensely. I like putting together my thoughts during the day or that night rather than resurrecting my feelings days later.

My Sunday blog is pending. I am having a more difficult time capturing my feelings so I may post the other missing blogs first and then go back to Sunday.

Today is Thursday, our off day. The gang is on a pontoon boat on Lake Kabetogama enjoying the sun and water. More on that later. For now, let’s go back to Monday…

MONDAY’S RIDE …

THE WEATHER …

We awake to another day of difficult to decipher weather. At times it looks as cold and forbidding as Sunday, a miserable day, and then the clouds break and it looks beautiful. I keep forgetting that the weather I see is not the weather I will be riding in an hour later, or for the remaining many hours of riding. Why I persist in thinking I can tell what to wear by peering at the sky surrounding me is a testament to the stubbornness of the human spirit. We believe what we can see far more than what we are told.

After much debate, I realize the best thing to do is dress for bad weather. I can always take layers off but I cannot add what I do not have, something I paid for yesterday. I put on an undershirt, my winter jersey, leg warmers, and full shoe covers. I also carry my rain breaker in my back pocket; it serves me well protecting against rain and is also another layer providing warmth. I will later be mightily happy with these decisions.

TODAY’S RIDE …

David and I start out. The day’s destination is 117 miles away. Jonah is taking the day off anticipating a long ride tomorrow. Immediately the weather displays its fickle nature, alternating brief glimpses of sun with mostly cloudy overcast sky’s grey and forbidding. My optimistic nature anticipates a dry day; the realist in me worries about more rain. Yesterday was enough for me.

We set a steady pace keeping well within our capability. I am learning from David. He cautions against exuberance. It will be a long day and we will need our strength later. Better to start out slowly. We average around 15 MPH, which is a testament to my progress as a cyclist. My typical ride was 15 MPH before The Norseman’s Passage. Now that pace defines an easy start. I am as competitve as they come but now I mostly measure myself against myself. I am happy.

I love the ponds and lakes sprinkles across North Dakota. Wherever we ride we see these little to large pockets of water; they are not infrequent companions along the roadside. The deep blue (turquoise? purple? what do I know, other than the color is deep and entrancing). I want to make sure I capture their beauty and snap photo after photo, trying to do so without stopping cycling.

It is cold. We joke later that we got seven minutes of sunshine; the rest of the day was overcast and brusk. The sky is grey to dark. The wind a near constant cross wind or headwind. Only occasionally is there relief and that only momentary; the wind is a companion invariably making our ride more difficult. It is a hard day in the saddle. I am thankful to be riding with David. We alternate periods of quiet contemplation with banter on serious and not-so-serious topics.

Sometime in the morning I don my rain breaker. It is not raining but it is cold. The jacket provides just the right relief. I am warm and happy. My feet are warm; they would be happy if they weren’t stuffed in cycling shoes and forced to drive pedals 85 times a minute for untold hours. Warm will suffice. Every decision I made this morning was the right one: I have the clothes to ensure an enjoyable day.

David and I stop for lunch (linner/dunch?) at a rare roadside convenience store. David has hot chocolate, a frozen Snicker’s bar, a ring ding, and fills his water bottle with hot water. I enjoy a hot dog and a hot chocolate. I have 4 bars LTE connectivity. I’m so excited I make a quick video for Terri and daughters just because I can. I will try and upload it to my blog. There is nothing significant about the message. It just shows how much fun I am having.

We have traveled 80 or so miles already and I feel great. In a way, it is crazy how good I feel. We have another 35 miles or so to go. I’m not even thinking about riding a Century. My focus is on having fun while riding and reaching my destination feeling good. Focusing on the ‘now’ of what I am doing makes everything else easier.

After lunch the sky darkens precipitously to the north and west and us. I increase my pace trying to outrun what appear to be a monsoon heavy rainclouds. We are cruising at 20-22 MPH. The clouds drift to our west. We get rain but it is nothing calamitous. The worse passes behind us. Glimpse of sunshine smile on us, but they are brief. For the most part, we pedal in grey. I think David is feeling the effects of the past days more than I, however, David has ridden so many more miles and he never takes a moment off. If one of us is riding, David is riding. HIs endurance and recovery are impressive. His riding style is power and strength personified. David is a bull who won’t stop until he has reached his goal. I marvel at his ability to perform a such a high level day after day.

TRAINS AND MORE TRAINS …

We reach the outskirts of Grand Forks. While train tracks paralleled our ride most of the day, we have not seen any moving trains. As we enter town, there is a train leaving. Without stopping cycling, I ready my iPhone and video the train. The engineer blows his horn. We are happy and excited. I know just who will love this video when I send it to Samantha.

We are in town, just a few miles from our hotel. We are both ready to be off our bikes and resting comfortably; well of course after eating a meal or two first. Suddenly, I hear crossing signals. A train is passing through. I speed up to the crossing full of energy to get there in time. I do! iPhone at the ready, I video another train for my grandson. This is a long one and I know how excited he will be. Amongst dozens of cars waiting, I stand in my cycling gear, iPhone held high, moving back and forth capturing as much of the train and the crossing signals as I can. What a wonderful end to a great day or riding.

I cycled 118 miles today. The distance amazes me. I feel very strong and not at all exhausted or at my limit. The pace David set at the beginning has paid off. It has been a great day riding.

ODDS & ENDS …

There were several pelicans in the lake in front of our cabin this morning. I think of Terri and how much she would love seeing them. I can hear the excitement in her voice. I take several pictures just for her. I apply one of Jonah’s lessons and use the burst shot feature on my iPhone to get the best shots.

David and I compete to see who can get a passing trucker to blow their horn. Graciously David doesn’t try too hard and finally I succeed in getting a trucker to oblige. Even as adults we remain kids at heart at times. It is simple fun. Continuing a theme realized days ago, truckers remain the friendliest of passersby, almost always waving a warm greeting as they pass.