Stage 12 - Great Falls to Bozeman, MT - June 5

Who woulda thunk it? My first Century yesterday. Today? What do I do for an encore? I think to myself: something nice and easy.

A BEAUTIFUL BEGINNING ...

It is a beautiful day. I spend the first forty miles riding at a casual pace. Vik and David are far ahead, out of sight, our two best cyclists flying over the road, enjoying the company of a peer well matched in skill and talent.

I am riding fourth of the Norseman, Jonah in front of me. Jonah is a courageous young man. He is suffering with a persistent shoulder pain that won't go away. The granny gear on his bike is gone. His rear crankset lost its smallest gear, making climbing hills even more challenging. Yet Jonah persists. Putting in the miles day after day, overcoming his pain, honoring the Norseman's challenge. I ride one or two football fields behind Jonah, respecting his desire to be alone, feeling free to ride at his own pace. I drift back, the parent in me not allowing him to ride last.

The sun is warm. The wind is friendly. A river runs alongside the road, gurgling, flowing. I am enjoying the ride. Happy. Content. Free.

At one point Jonah's tire flats. I am there with him; we change his tire and move forward together.

A MOUNTAIN SUMMIT CALLS ...

After 40 miles or so, we catch up to David and Vik who are waiting for us to have lunch. After a delightful meal, we contemplate next steps. I'm debating an end to my day. David mentions we face a 20 mile climb. Damnation, I'm intrigued. Still unsure of my decision, David says: "Would you like to ride with Vik while I ride with Jonah?" "No" I reply without hesitation, an effort to preserve my quiet day. Apparently not hearing me, David says: "great, I'll ride with Jonah". I decide it is fate. I mount my steed and away I go with Vik. I enjoy riding with him. He is an excellent cyclist with patience. We are more equally paired eleven days into our ride. I am much stronger than I was just a month ago yet he remains the superior rider. We work well together.

The top of the summit is a long time coming but the ride is pleasant. Most of the grade is around 2-3%, something easier to maintain. Until the grade ramps up to 6-8% with 5-7 miles to go. I feel yesterday in my legs and draining energy level. Cycling becomes very hard. I am empty. I persist; Vik encourages. Finally, we reach the summit. I feel a great sense of accomplishment. All I want to do is quit. Yet I don't even contemplate it. I cannot. A 25 mile descent awaits; in cycling parlance: "free miles". Downhill we go.

I tire. Vik helps. At one point, I see him gesturing, pointing at his backside. I understand he wants me to ride immediately behind him in his bike's slipstream. The timing is priceless. A trucker passes at the same time Vik gestures. The trucker gives Vik a strange look, likely misinterpreting the intent behind his movement as best Vik could tell by the strange expression in the trucker's face. We laugh about it afterward; a tiny priceless memory.

A CENTURY IS POSSIBLE ...

Vik and I finally make it to White Sulfur Springs, our day's cycling destination. I have ridden 96 miles. There is no way I am stopping. We fly past the waiting van. I catch up to a pickup truck, drafting as we ride through town. Still I lack miles. I blow through town and head I do not know where as fast as I can, just interested in miles. No other thoughts in my mind. The support van passes us, Vik still accompanying me, a true teammate and partner. David and Jonah yell encouragement. At one point, they tell me to turn around and head back into town, confident the return trip will net me the last miles I need. I do as they suggest. It is an unremitting grind. I am pouring everything into these last few minutes. I drain my energy reserves. I am beyond exhausted. When my Garmin finally registers 100, I exult; screaming "YES" as I ease up and coast to the waiting van. Spent but happy. Back to back Centuries.

Last night I said to Vik: "hey, let's ride 100 tomorrow" joking. Vik laughed and said "we'll see". After the first 40 miles, a Century was the furthest thing from my mind. It only happened because I couldn't say 'no' to the possibility of an epic 20 mile climb to a 7,200 foot summit. In my heart, I am a climber; not a sprinter; not a descender; a climber. I do not have a climber's body, just a climber's heart. Slogging up unrelenting hills; riding the best pace I can for miles after miles, is the best I can do. I love it, truly and truly. I doubt anyone is happier or prouder when the summit is attained.

The day's accomplishment was possible because I focused on the journey. Vik as my companion. The sun at our back. Beautiful scenery. The Belt River at our side, talking constantly, a pleasure to view. I wanted to ride up that stupid damn mountain to that far away summit. I accomplished it one pedal stroke at a time.

TRAVEL ACCOMMODATIONS ...

We end up in Bozeman, MT after a 90 minute van ride. It is after midnight (how much later I do not know). We are staying at a hostel, a first for me. Our room is about 8 ft by 13 ft. Two bunk beds. A twin bed. Two end tables. A chair. Four bikes. Our luggage. It all manages to fit with a little rearranging. Any movement in bed is accompanied by squeaking springs. We try to be as quiet as possible for the benefit of everyone else. It is a typical eclectic moment in David's travel itinerary, something unexpected yet oddly fitting. Another way we bond as a group.

ODDS & ENDS …

The roads of Montana rarely exceed an 8% grade. This makes climbing more doable. Who to thank? The National Transportation Board legislated maximum grades on US roads in consideration of the trucking industry and what was best for large trucks. I am grateful.

Food is fuel. As mentioned before, I am in eating heaven, burning more calories each day than I can replenish. It occurs to me: being an endurance cyclist “requires” living like a hobbit: there is breakfast, then 2nd breakfast, followed by a morning snack, then lunch and a 2nd lunch, with an afternoon snack, followed by dinner, the day capped of with supper. Any meal can be enhanced with desert. OMG! I have replaced the fat burning metabolism of a young man with the calorie burning efforts of an endurance cyclist.

Stage 11 - Glacier Nat'l Park to Great Falls - June 4

I am behind blogging. Full days and inadequate WiFi are challenges hard to overcome. This blog covers Tuesday June 4th when we left Glacier National Park and ended in Great Falls, MT.

I am struck by the beauty surrounding us. The topography changes yet wonderful scenery abounds in vast and ever-changing displays.

We pass a cyclist riding to Maine carrying all she needs. We share our common destination. She looks askance, questioning ‘how so’ with no supplies on our bikes. I love humanity. In all situations we create hierarchies to order things. To many people, our passage with support is too much of a challenge. To the unsupported cyclist, ours is the easier path. Our fellow cyclist quickly recovers and graciously acknowledges our effort. It's a pleasant conversation.

There is so much for the curious to discover. A bird soars overhead and I am reminded of two summers exploring Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico at an overnight summer camp. We learned one can tell birds apart by observing their flight patterns, how they flap their winds and the sequence of their pauses and gliding. A river runs by our road noisily hurrying along and I am reminded a knowledgeable person can tell where rocks lie underneath the surface and where safe passage is possible by the white water and shape of swells. I cannot do either of these things yet I know how much learning is possible in the great outdoors.

Montana roads are a challenge. Today’s initially beautiful scenery has become monotonous. The crosswinds are brutal to ride in. Even descents are a tricky challenge, fearful of being blown into traffic yet nervous riding on the poorly maintained roadside. We persevere but it is not fun.

Vik and I are riding together again. We reach a pass after 56 miles and wait for Peter for further directions. We are next to a stand of aspen trees. Oh how I love these trees with their white mottled bark and petite green leaves. The sound of the wind blowing through the stand of aspens is beautiful. I remember again my time as a 13 and 15 year old camping out west.

60 miles in, one loooong badass climb up to this pass, we enjoy a delightful lunch in East Glacier. This is living life to its fullest! To ride this long and climb mountain and pass one after another fills me with a sense of accomplishment and happiness that is hard to describe. We all dream but do we really expect to fulfill those dreams? I never truly did. And then The Norseman’s Passage came along and I committed. And now, with the assistance of many people, here I am eating the Pastrami Reuben sandwich special and contemplating desert on top of the world in Montana with four fellow Norseman.

We end up after finishing our ride and commuting in the van for an hour in Great Falls, MT. It is another late evening but the day was full and rewarding.

ODDS AND ENDS …

We are stopped along the road replenishing water and snacks. Vik asks: “how about we ride another 12 miles and call it quits?” I ask “why, what will 12 miles get us?” Vik: “your first Century.” I say “let’s do it”, jump on my bike and start pedaling. Vik hesitates to take a picture and I am gone. Legs pumping. Energy fueling my engine. I am on a mission. Oops … not too fast cowboy! I flat at mile 96.5. I laugh; this is the cycling Gods letting me know nothing comes easy. Vik catches up, laughing with me. Together we fix my tire. We set off and I complete my first Century ride in another short burst. I am pumped. I exult in triumph. I have earned this milestone. I achieved it by enjoying all the moments throughout the day and letting come what was meant to me. The achievement was a byproduct of a fantastic day.

Stage 10 - Glacier National Park - June 3

A nice relaxing day. Slept in. 10:00 breakfast. 1:00 hike to Avalanche Lake and short walk through the Cedars. 5:00 return to the Lodge. David, Vik, and Jonah jumped on their steeds and rode the "Going To The Sun" road for the beautiful views and fun ride. We met for dinner at 8:30 at the Lake McDonald Lodge. All in all, a great day.

PICTURES:

Stage 9 - Pictures from June 2nd

A railroad man talks with a younger boy holding a steam engine in his hand. The picture evokes strong feelings for my grandson who has been such an intimate part of my life the past seven years.

The end of the day's ride. Vik and I pose in front of the entrance sign to Glacier National Park, very pleased with our day's efforts!

Stage 9 - Fernie BC to Glacier National Park - June 2

It is past midnight. David, Peter, Jonah and I had an incredibly excellent dinner at Josephine’s at 10:00. We awarded them the “Best Food On Our Trip” award … (so far). Vik wasn’t with us as he elected to retire early. The evening sky is full of stars. something we see too infrequently any more. I love the quiet and serenity.

HOME …

It is nice to be back in the United States. Our time in Canada was special. Yet home is home. I love my country.

Montana is indeed Big Sky country. The open expanses of land. The fewer mountains. Lotsa blue sky dotted with white clouds. It is beautiful in its own unique way.

The first billboard I saw in Montana advertised “Oriental Food and Sushi”. What an instant reminder of the diversity of the USA’s population. Too bad we are having such a difficult time accepting and embracing all the different peoples who make up our great nation.

TODAY’S RIDE …

I had a tremendous time on my bicycle today. I got out early and rode for several hours by myself. Vik caught up to me (as I knew he would) and we rode the rest of the 65 miles to Whitefish together.

One reason cycling was so enjoyable was yesterday’s time in the van; it reminded me that so much is missed traveling by automobile. This learning fleshed out and strengthened my strategy to remain “in the moment” when I cycle. Now I knew WHY being in the moment was so important. I can bicycle longer because I am focusing on the journey and not the destination. During the journey, I want to experience and appreciate what I am seeing, riding through, and experiencing.

Another reason I had so much fun today is that I was strong. I powered across flat stretches. I flew down declines. I motored up hills. My legs were strong. My will overcame discomfort (a lesson I am learning from David and Vik). Towards the end of our first ride, Vik’s knee was hampering him. He needed help. I took the lead for the rest of our ride and let him ‘draft’ my wheel, making his effort much less. My teammate needed me and I worked extra hard to be there for him.

I iced my knees at lunch in Whitefish to combat the inflammation that was becoming problematic. Our second ride of the day to Glacier National Park would test how well my new strategy worked. I am happy to report that the results were fantastic (so far; let’s see tomorrow, but right now, i’m pumped!).

The 30+ miles to Glacier flew by. Well, ok, not exactly, but for the most part. At one point towards the end of our ride, I told Vik I couldn’t keep up. Vik slowed down and “pulled me” (‘drafting’ in cycling parlance, which saves the draftee, aka me, about 30% energy to keep up).

Vik exhorted me to keep going. “We’ve got this Bruce! C’mon!” he barked. I was motivated! After a brief period and a convenient flat and downhill section, I felt my strength returning. Vik and I cranked the pedals and got to the Park in excellent form. We felt really good about our performance. We celebrated with ice cream at Eddy’s Cafe. Yummy!

I rode 93 miles in total today. Vik asked if I wanted to try for a Century and I said ‘no’. I want to remain true to myself and my self-proclaimed strategy of being in the moment. Pushing to ride seven more miles having already seen what was to be seen and reaching our destination would contradict my commitment to myself. I am incredibly proud that I have ridden over 75 miles as many days as I have. The absence of a Century does not bother me at all. My time will come when it is due. I thought it might be today but it wasn’t and I am perfectly happy with that.

A TEMPORARY TITLE …

Vik bestowed upon me the honorary nickname: “Hercules” in recognition of my work today. I was proud to be recognized and felt I had earned it. I’m still Breezer for the long haul but for a temporary tag, Hercules is very nice.

ODDS & ENDS …

A Black Bear started to cross the road about 20 yards ahead of Vik and me. “HOLY SHIT!!!” I thought and slammed on my brakes. The Black Bear was startled by our presence and even more by the unnerving sound of my screeching brakes. The Black Bear turned around in a hurry and beat a hasty retreat into the woods. How funny! The Black Bear turned out to be more scared than me. My lucky day!!!

Tomorrow we will stay at Glacier National Park and enjoy the surroundings. No travel! No packing! Yahoo!!!

Ciao for now,
Hercules
:-)

Stage 8 - Fairmont Hot Springs to Fernie - June 1

A LAZY MORNING …

Today’s agenda changed dramatically after last night’s midnight arrival. We slept in and enjoyed late breakfasts. Several visited the hot springs and relaxed outside in the morning. Two Norseman scheduled massages.

Jonah’s massage was his first and he declared it a great success. He finished his session with an invigorating plunge in a cold spring. Brrr…

During my massage, I kept thinking what Michelle would have done with my weary and sore muscles. I felt much better after - it was a delightful rehabilitation - but not what would have been with Michelle. And for some reason I acquired a new soreness behind my right knee (popliteal???) which I’m now unsuccessfully trying to ignore.

TODAY’S RIDE …

I did not cycle today. No reason to counteract the recovery benefits from my massage. I am eager to ride tomorrow.

Time in the van is time spent with Peter who is from South Africa, 73 years young - thus sparing me the “old(est) guy on the trip” prize - and loves to drive. Peter is actively running his business in between visits to family with his wife. In the “It’s A Small World” category, Peter’s oldest daughter Sandra lived next door and served in our HOA together with Terri before moving. Peter is a delightful companion, tremendous at catering to our needs, and always delivering the right comment, be it astute, humorous, or appropriately acerbic.

We stopped in Canal Flats and saw a car show. It never ceases to amaze me how alike are people the world over. As much as politicians and ideologists promote divisive differences, most people I've met during my travels are concerned with the same things: family, friends, financials... life and being happy.

The day’s drive went through beautiful valley countryside. The Kootenay River was a constant companion providing gorgeous landscapes throughout the day. The Elk River was by our side after dinner, providing equally gorgeous views.

The change in topography from 6,000 feet to 2,500 is dramatic. Larger greener valleys. More Aspens and other trees; fewer evergreens relatively. Broad meandering rivers.

We had a delightful dinner at the Bull River Inn. Afterward, we sat around reviewing some of our photos having an uproariously funny time. Luckily we were outside on the back patio or we would have gotten in trouble.

David continued cycling to our hotel while the rest of us went on ahead (Vik nursing a sore right knee - those damn knees!!!).


I realized riding in the van how much I missed riding my bike. Cycling immerses me in the land and I appreciate so much more what I am seeing.

Ernest Hemingway had it right!






ODDS & ENDS …

Terri is with me in heart and action every day. I see beauty surround me every day and wonder “how would Terri like this?” and “I have to take that picture to share with her”. I wonder how it would be to visit these same places with her. And in more mundane ways … I ride down hills more safely, mindful she will kill me if I get hurt through my own carelessness. I use sunscreen conscientiously throughout the day. And on and on.

Jonah keeps explaining different features of my iPhone. I might just learn how to use it. Hahaha…

NEWS FLASH … there is a party in our hotel. Various Roller Derby teams are here celebrating a tournament. SO COOL!!! I tried to crash the party but with no luck! Darn!

Stage 7 - Lake Louise to Fairmont Hot Springs - May 31

Another incredible day in Mother Nature’s paradise. Words and pictures do not adequately convey the magnificence seen when immersed outdoors in all of nature’s grandeur. Breathtaking.

The day was classic David. Ours is not a linear path targeting Maine as directly as possible. Our route was planned by David to maximize adventures along the way. The first week has been chock full of fun.

We started Friday with a climb reaching 10-11% grades to see Lake Louise’s Fairmont Chateau. The hotel, adjacent lake, and views were magnificent.

Next up after a short descent was another climb with more 10-11% grades to see Lake Marlaine. The views were spectacular. We saw numerous “small” avalanches on the distant mountains, each announced with a sharp crack.

We regrouped at last night’s hotel before departing eastward. In other words, while we were not any closer to Maine, we had started the day with two fantastic and unforgettable (avalanches!) adventures.

I concluded my cycling after 65 miles in Banff (yesterday I rode 92 miles). My knees needed a break. Banff is a very cool town and we enjoyed a big lunch at The Spaghetti Factory.

I haven’t eaten like this since I was a teenager. It’s all fuel - we cannot consume enough calories to replenish what we burn each day. OMG, am I having fun eating!

We retraced our steps via van out of Banff and headed towards our day’s destination: Fairmont Hot Springs.

Three Norseman resumed cycling at Boom Lake. Several hours later, Jonah completed his first Century, an awesome accomplishment. Vik and David rode Centuries today as well.

We saw three Grizzlies and over a half dozen Black Bears today. We also saw several groups of Bighorn Sheep. Wow!

I am very happy for my fellow Norseman’s cycling accomplishments. I am personally happy to have exercised the “Wisdom of No” and stopped cycling when I did. Better to save myself for future days’ cycling adventures.

Having ridden 75, 84, 91 & 92 miles and climbed multiple steep summits miles in length, I have proven my cycling mettle. But I do not like stopping in the middle. The task is to remember my "metric" is not how much I ride on any individual day but on how many days I cycle and have fun doing so.

My knees are happy. And my knees don't care what my brain is or is not thinking.


ODDS & ENDS …

I trained three to five days a week for seven months preparing for The Northman’s Passage. It’s been four and a half decades (or since high school) that I followed such a structured regimen. The gap in time makes this experience even more meaningful for me.

It’s light outside until 10:00 in the evening. Greatly increases time available to ride (of which we are taking full advantage).

Most vehicles traveling this afternoon and evening carried bikes. Obviously, Canadians are very smart people!